![home depot double sided mastic tape home depot double sided mastic tape](https://www.drainageshop.co.uk/user/products/large/butyl-double-sided-tape-50mm-x-10m.jpg)
Here is the adress on the package if a aponsor would like to do more research and maybe pick the closer to OEM stuff:Īs for uploading pics - I just cannot for a reason. If this product would be available by forum sponsors,hm,hm,hm - hint, It shows how easy it is to squish it so it molds.
![home depot double sided mastic tape home depot double sided mastic tape](https://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1SaBawb1YBuNjSszeq6yblFXaJ/231688217/HTB1SaBawb1YBuNjSszeq6yblFXaJ.jpg)
I just piced the round stuff thinking it might take easier the shape of different spots where the cover of he door molds.Īttached are the pics. I do not know how close/similar it is to the OEM stuff, but if it's butyl, it should be similar. Honestly, I had a hard time finding this product. I found it Auto Value store (Canada) and I have no idea how high the markup price is - I paid 10 bux and change. I will use it this week sometimes and I will let you guys know how it works. I found something which I hope is similar.
![home depot double sided mastic tape home depot double sided mastic tape](https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/983331a9-842d-46e2-ae12-84409406f4b9/svn/gray-3m-specialty-anti-slip-tape-414dc-sf-e1_1000.jpg)
The butyl is NOT permanent, and if you have to repair anything, it is very easy to remove it. That was exactly what I was told by auto body shops.Īdam1979 (post#8) pretty much nailed it, the downside is the "stealer" markup price. Throughout this thread there were some remarks on how too permanent the 3M and similar stuff is. I was guided to seek advice from the body shops. I checked different auto parts stores, and asked for their input. Post #8 made me look into this a bit further. You will need to wet a new paper towel often with the prepsol but it will remove ALL of the butyl and any wax/silicon on the door frame. Keep doing this to remove most of the remaining butyl. This will result in removing the thin layer from the door. To finish, wad up a ball of butyl (with nitral gloves on) and push the wad into the remaining thin layers on the door frame. I then used this to scrape off most of the old butyl. How long did it take to clean all that butyl off? It sounds like quite the project (one I don't think I have time for).I took a toothbrush with a fat handle and cut the handle near the end at a 45 degree angle to create a small scraper. We have had quite a bit of rain in MA recently, and it hasn't been a problem so I'm not worried. I suppose I should fix it right per gtxragtop's suggestion of cleaning everything and starting from scratch, but until I have water on the floor I am not motivated to do that. There is a tiny bit of water dripping out of the bottom of the door if I open it right after a really hard rainstorm, but I have never had water on the carpet. I actually did this more as a precautionary measure because I had removed the vapor barrier a few times to play with the window. I took the lazy way and just slapped the new butyl on top of the old where there wasn't much left. A bit of brown tinge on the black plastic due to dampness over a long period of time before I bought the car. Interesting enough, the pass side right rear sill was slightly off color. Please bear in mind that your floors may not be wet, but they may be getting slightly damp (not to the touch) which creates mildew and rust on floors. Are my vapor barriers leaking, just not enough to wet the carpet?Fully dry now since the last fix with the new vapor barriers and new Butyl (that is available at NAPA) Does not matter how much rain or washing with hose. Like I said, I've had wet BMW door sills since I bought the car. I reheated one rear vapor barrier after that side of the rear floor started becoming wet, and it fixed the wet carpet issue. Gtxragtop, so are your door sills dry after a wash or rain? The black plastic sills that say BMW, ///M or ///M5? I ask because mine have always been wet after a wash and I thought it was normal. Pulled the door panels off AGAIN and sure enough, the seal was broken in the same place. After my first fix, I never had wet floors but I had damp/wet lower door panels on both sides. If it is damp in any way, it is leaking and needs to be corrected. With your totally dry hand, wipe your hand on the lower door frame between the outside door weatherstrip gasket and the interior door panel. After a strong rainstorm carefully open the rear door. IT takes a hard rain, with the vehicle at the right angle to get wet floors. The vapor barrier can be separated from door frame and most of the time the floor will be dry. Cleaned door frame with autobody paint prepsol. Bought new vapor barriers, removed butyl AGAIN. lasted around a month with same symptom as above. I removed all old Butyl, installed all new Butyl. Reheat did not work, 1 month later, still weeping BUT NO WET FLOOR I suggest a search since this has been covered numerous times.